Three Stars (2010 TV Movie)
8/10
An underrated gem?
26 May 2014
This is a documentary where the subjects largely speak for themselves. It's not really about the Michelin guide or the challenge of achieving a *** rating. Rather, I interpret that as a framing device for a subtle character portrait of a handful of famous and not-so-famous (yet incredibly skilled) chefs. Those who are familiar -- Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Rene Redzepi were the ones I recognized -- are seen in a light somewhat different from Top Chef Masters, or even David Chang's "Mind of a Chef".

There are no startling revelations in this film about the business of producing elite cuisine. The most interesting thing I learned was that Edouard Michelin was rather visionary, in 2002, to implement a strategic plan to expand the global scope of the Michelin guide, including new editions for various Asian cities. (This call seems to have been unquestionably correct, with the benefit of hindsight.)

I was most intrigued by the variation among the chefs' personalities. The expressions on Elena Arzak's face as her father Juan pontificates are hilarious. Redzepi is almost *too* earnest. Vongerichten is ... pretty much exactly what you'd expect for a classically trained, Asian- influenced chef with an empire. Ishikawa is the one whose restaurant I want to eat at most.

This is definitely a small film, but enjoyable nonetheless. There is a perceptible hint of editorializing by the film-maker, but by and large he leaves viewers to draw what they wish from the people as he films them. That, I appreciated.
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