Sparaga cooks up a tasty, compelling portrait of one man's attempt to create an "institution" among the highly competitive field of New York restaurants. In a city where dining traditions reach back as long as two centuries, Charles Devigne strives to both pay homage to the beloved Gino's and make Pescatore a home for lovers of Italian food, old and new. Devigne is a fascinating character -- an artist in more than one sense of the word -- and he gambles big in this story. Sparaga's skillful interviewing evokes passion and laughter from his subjects, and he weaves a strong story arc which has us rooting -- and worried -- for Devigne and his plans. The ending was both surprising and oddly satisfying.